The ultimate guide to Nairobi, Kenya: everything you need to know before you go

Few cities will wrong-foot you quite like Nairobi. One minute you're sipping a flat white in a café that could pass for Shoreditch, the next you're watching a giraffe amble past the city skyline from a sanctuary ten minutes from the CBD. Kenya's capital is chaotic, creative, occasionally frustrating, and genuinely unlike anywhere else on earth — and most visitors wildly underestimate how much there is to do here before they even set foot on a game drive.

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What to know before you fly to Nairobi

Nairobi sits at 1,795 metres above sea level, which means two things: the climate is far more temperate than you'd expect for equatorial Africa (think 20–26°C most of the year, cool evenings), and you may feel slightly breathless on arrival. Pack a light layer for nights.

The city has two airports. Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) handles all international long-haul flights and is where you'll land from the UK. Wilson Airport, much smaller, is primarily for domestic and light-aircraft bush flights — relevant if you're continuing to a safari destination.

Flights from London typically run through Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta, with Kenya Airways flying direct from Heathrow in around 8.5 hours. Return fares from UK airports generally range from £450–£750, though booking 3–4 months out can push that lower. You'll find current prices using the flight search tool on our site — it's worth checking multiple UK departure points, as Manchester and Birmingham occasionally throw up cheaper options via connecting hubs.

One thing that catches a lot of UK travellers off guard: Kenya requires an East Africa Tourist Visa, which covers Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda and costs USD $50 (around £40). Apply online before you travel. Processing is usually 3–5 working days.

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Getting your bearings: Nairobi's neighbourhoods

Nairobi's layout makes more sense once you stop thinking of it as a single city and start thinking of it as several very different towns pressed together.

Westlands is where most visitors base themselves. It's the commercial and social hub of modern Nairobi — full of restaurants, rooftop bars, shopping centres like Westgate and Sarit Centre, and a lively café culture. It's safe to walk in daylight, and Uber works reliably here.

Karen (named after Karen Blixen of Out of Africa fame) is leafy, upmarket, and unhurried. This is where you'll find the Giraffe Centre and the Karen Blixen Museum. If you've got a budget that stretches to it, the boutique guesthouses out here are seriously lovely.

Kilimani sits between Westlands and the CBD, popular with expats and increasingly well-served by good restaurants and coffee shops. Often a sweet spot between price and convenience for accommodation.

The CBD (Central Business District) is frenetic, loud, and genuinely interesting — but not a great base for tourists. Worth a daytime wander for the street food and energy, but leave your valuables at the hotel.

Lavington is quieter and residential, good for longer stays.

The honest take: Nairobi rewards curiosity but punishes complacency. Petty theft is a real risk in crowded areas and at night. Use Ubers rather than hailing taxis on the street, keep your phone in your pocket in busy areas, and you'll be absolutely fine.

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The best things to do in Nairobi

This is where Nairobi really delivers. You can fill four or five days here without leaving the city — which surprises most people who assumed it was just a transit point.

Nairobi National Park

Only 7km from the city centre, this is the world's only national park within a capital city. You can spot lions, rhinos, buffalo, and hundreds of bird species against a backdrop of the Nairobi skyline. A half-day game drive costs around KES 5,000–8,000 per person (£30–50) including a driver-guide. You can browse and book guided park experiences directly on our site — it's worth going with a knowledgeable guide rather than just hiring a taxi to the gate.

Giraffe Centre

Operated by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, this is where you can hand-feed Rothschild giraffes (one of the rarest subspecies in the world) at nose height on an elevated wooden platform. It sounds gimmicky. It absolutely isn't. Entry is around KES 2,500 (£15) for adults. Go early — it gets busy by mid-morning.

Karen Blixen Museum

The farmhouse where Blixen wrote Out of Africa is beautifully preserved and set in gorgeous grounds. Entry is modest (around KES 1,200/£7), and the guided tour provides real context. Even if you haven't read the book, the colonial-era history is fascinating and not uncritically presented.

Nairobi National Museum

A genuinely excellent museum covering Kenyan prehistory, natural history, and contemporary culture. Located near Uhuru Park, it's worth two or three hours of your time. Entry is around KES 1,200 (£7).

The food scene

Don't sleep on this. Nairobi has a fantastic restaurant scene ranging from street-level nyama choma (grilled meat, absolutely worth trying) to excellent Ethiopian, Indian, and contemporary African cuisine. Java House is a reliable and well-priced local chain for breakfast and coffee. For something more ambitious, Carnivore Restaurant in Langata is a Nairobi institution — a sprawling meat feast that's been running since 1980.

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Where to stay in Nairobi: honest recommendations by budget

Nairobi has a wide range of accommodation, and the quality gap between options is significant — doing your research matters here.

Budget (under £40/night): There are decent guesthouses in Westlands and Kilimani in this range, but read reviews carefully. Some budget hotels in the CBD look cheap for a reason.

Mid-range (£40–120/night): This is the sweet spot. Hotels like the Trademark Hotel in Westlands offer proper comfort, good security, and rooftop bars — typically around £70–90/night. The Tribe Hotel in Village Market is another strong mid-range option with a genuinely distinctive aesthetic.

Splurge (£150+/night): The Giraffe Manor in Karen, where the resident Rothschild giraffes poke their heads through the breakfast-room windows, is on most serious travellers' bucket lists — but it books up months in advance and costs accordingly (usually £500+/night including meals). Worth knowing about even if you just visit for the Giraffe Centre next door.

You can compare current hotel prices across Nairobi on our site — it pulls in live rates so you're not guessing.

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Staying connected and staying safe

Getting data in Kenya

Kenya is outside the EU, so your UK roaming allowance doesn't apply. Don't get hit by roaming charges — pick up an Airalo eSIM before you travel. It's one of the cheapest and most convenient ways to get data in Kenya, and you can activate it before you board your flight at Heathrow. A 1GB Kenya data package typically costs around $5–7 USD. Airalo works on any unlocked smartphone.

Money

M-Pesa, Kenya's mobile payment system, is ubiquitous — but as a tourist you're more likely to use a combination of cash (Kenyan Shillings) and cards. ATMs are widely available in Westlands and Kilimani. Avoid using ATMs in the CBD at night. Inform your bank before you travel.

Travel insurance

Do not skip travel insurance for Kenya. Medical care in Nairobi can be expensive, and if you're continuing to a safari or more remote areas, evacuation cover is essential. ITT recommends treating insurance as a non-negotiable line item in your travel budget — sort it before you book anything else.

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The best time to visit Nairobi

Nairobi is genuinely year-round, but there are better and worse months.

• January–February: Dry, warm, excellent visibility for the National Park. One of the best times to visit.

• March–May: The long rains. Not impossible, but expect afternoon downpours and some disruption.

• June–October: The dry season, also when most people combine Nairobi with a Masai Mara safari (the Great Migration peaks July–September). Prices rise.

• November: Short rains — lighter than March–May, and the city is green and lush.

• December: Busy with Kenyan domestic tourism, but a festive atmosphere and good weather.

For most UK travellers, January–February or June–October represent the best combination of weather and wildlife activity.

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Ready to plan your Nairobi trip?

Nairobi gets written off as a stopover city more often than it deserves. The truth is it's a genuinely fascinating, fast-evolving destination with world-class food, remarkable wildlife access, and a creative energy that stays with you long after you've left.

Whether you're building a few days here into a wider East Africa trip or making Nairobi the destination in its own right, there's more than enough to reward the visit.

Head to Itching to Travel to search flights from UK airports, compare hotel prices, and browse guided tours and activities in Nairobi — everything you need to go from "thinking about it" to "actually booked" in one place.

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